Lodge Review: Caiman Ecologico Refuge, Pantanal

*Originally published on Feathered and Free.  These historical reviews are gradually being merged to MTTW.

The Pantanal region of Brazil is one of the “holy grails” of any parrot lover or bird watcher. This vast wetland wilderness is home to the rare Hyacinth Macaw as well as some commonly found species such as Nanday Conures, Amazons, Quakers and Maximilian Pionus. I began researching two years in advance on the internet to insure we would have the best possible experience. I like to give preference to ecotourism projects that benefit endangered species and provide employment opportunities to locals who might otherwise have engaged in the heinous practice of poaching. After careful consideration, I chose the Refugio Ecologico Caiman because it is home to the Projeto Arara Azul founded by Neiva Guedes. This project has been instrumental in bringing back the Hyacinth Macaw from near extinction and studying their breeding habits. The project has succeeded in bringing the population of Hyacinth Macaws from 1500 to 6000!   Since 2007, small groups can arrange to accompany the volunteers of the project on their daily activities and studies.

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I arranged our package through Open Door Tur which is a reliable tour operator based in Campo Grande, Brazil. Campo Grande is the gateway to the Pantanal and is accessed by plane from Sao Paulo or by bus from many Brazilian cities. We took the comfortable overnight bus from Foz do Iguacu and spent one day in Campo Grande to rest up before our big adventure.

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Sylvia from Open Door Tur picked us up at our hotel and took us on the 3.5 hour drive to Refugio Ecologico Caiman.

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We were met on arrival by the staff and immediately shown to a room near the swimming pool at Sede Lodge.

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Everyone was very friendly and they explained about the board with the tours and activities.  They divide everyone into two groups-yellow (English) and blue (Portuguese).  A buffet lunch was served at noon and then we discovered that so far, we were the only tourists to arrive in our yellow group.

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The flights were still chaotic and everyone else was delayed.  While resting after lunch, I heard the distinctive Macaw squawk and ran out into the garden to see two Hyacinth Macaws munching on nuts in a palm tree right there in the hotel garden!  Not even on a tour and already seeing Hyacinths!!!

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The afternoon activity was the bike ride and it was only us and the guide, two other guides went along just for the fun of it, nothing else to do.  Rheas which look like ostritches were on the grounds.

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We had barely gotten out the gate when we saw about 7 or 8 Hyacinths flying around so I leapt off the bike to grab pics.

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Then we passed the small airstrip and there were 2 mango trees just full of parrots-BF Amazons, Nandays and Maximillian Pionus!

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I flat out refused to leave the area, lucky there were no other tourists in the group!  Ina and one of the guides biked on ahead but later on, he said he didn’t see anything else.  The other guide finally managed to drag me away from the parrot trees kicking and screaming!  

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We reconfirmed with the people from Projecto Arara Azul for tomorrow.  Cezar and one of the volunteers who spoke English-Julianne would be taking us with them on their normal daily routine.  Neiva Guedes, the manager was out of the area so I didn’t get to meet her.  Cezar runs the show in the field now with help of 3 volunteers.

Dinner was at 7:30, a nice buffet.  Some of the other yellow group tourists had started to arrive, quite a mix-Americans, French, Belgians and Dutch.  We jad a short night safari to see nocturnal animals which were VERY hard to spot and it was freezing cold!  Then we made an early night so we could get up early for tomorrow.

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To be Continued…………………………..

Rhea (Rhea americana)

The Rheas are large ratites (flightless birds without a keel on their sternum bone) in the order Rheiformes, native to South America, related to the ostrich and emu. There are two extant species: the greater or American rhea (Rhea americana) and the lesser or Darwin’s rhea (Rhea pennata).

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They have a large range over half of South America but most people will see them most easily in the Pantanal.

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LEARN MORE ABOUT RHEAS

Wikipedia

Birdlife

Neotropical Birds

VIDEO

I struggled to find anything filmed in the wild but this one in a safari park is pretty good.

Hyacinth Macaw (Anodorhynchus hyacinthinus)

The undisputed showstopper of the Pantanal is the magnificent Hyacinth Macaw;  native to central and eastern South America. With a length (from the top of its head to the tip of its long pointed tail) of about 100 cm (3.3 ft) it is longer than any other species of parrot. It is the largest macaw and the largest flying parrot species.

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Most people come to the Pantanal in Brazil to see them as they are very easily found.  You could also see them in far eastern Bolivia and slightly into northern Paraguay.

Hyacinth map

LEARN MORE ABOUT HYACINTH MACAWS

Wikipedia

World Parrot Trust

Birdlife

National Geographic

Neotropical Birds

VIDEOS

Notice how the videographer approaches cautiously behind a tree?  This is how you get closer to wild birds!  The loud calls are unmistakeable.

Two gorgeous youngsters working up their courage to leave the nest!

 

Planning A Birding Trip To The Pantanal

There are several ways you can organize your visit to the Pantanal.  There are also two major gateway cities – Campo Grande in the south and Cuiaba in the north.  It doesn’t really matter which gateway you choose as the wildlife is similar on either end and the Hyacinth Macaws are found in both areas.  It will probably come down to which is more convenient to the rest of your trip.  If you are including Cristalino near Alta Floresta then go with Cuiaba.  If you are including Foz do Iguacu, then choose Campo Grande.  You have a choice of flights (Gol, Azul, Tam or Avianca) or bus transportation either way.  When we did our trip, Gol was a partner of American Airlines, now they partner with Delta.  Tam is the current partner of American.  Azul and Avianca Brazil partner with United.

You can save money and miles if you book your first flight from your home country to either Cuiaba or Campo Grande using these partners rather than booking just to Rio or Sao Paulo.  Bus travel in Brazil ranges from the very basic to luxury “executivo” buses.  If you want to do both areas – north & south, then I recommend taking the bus and booking a lodge along the Trans-Pantaniera so you can just hop out.  You could also drive but check the drop off fees first.

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THE THREE BASIC WAYS TO VISIT THE PANTANAL

  1.  Join a longer birding tour that includes the Pantanal and has a guide accompanying the group.  This is the easiest option and also the most expensive.  I can’t really recommend one tour over another as I am not the group tour type but you can start by googling “Pantanal Birding Tour”.
  2.   Book a package from a Brazilian tour operator that only includes the Pantanal component of the trip.  We used Open Door Tur back in 2007 and were happy with the service.  There are other local companies which can be found with a search but I don’t know enough about any of them to make a recommendation.  This option is a nice compromise between budget and DIYing as you still get local birding guides and transport out to the lodge you will be staying at.  This is the option we did during our first visit in July 2007 via Campo Grande to Caiman Ecological Refuge.  I had also booked a day with the Arara Azul volunteers which took the place of the usual tourist activities and was the highlight of our trip!
  3.   DIY the whole thing.  Book a rental car, book a lodge and drive yourself.  The lodges will have guides available and you can make a day trip to places like Pousada Araras with a guide to show you the birds.  This is what we did on our Sept 2012 trip.  After calling several lodges and finding a few of them fully booked, we found the Curicaca Wildlife Refuge and booked in for a couple days and rented a car from Hertz in Cuiaba to drive ourselves out there.  It wasn’t as simple as I thought it would be but we did end up with an excellent experience and saw lots of birds!

Of course detailed posts on all of the above will be forthcoming in this series!

Brazil Offers Visa-free Entry June 1 – Sept 15th 2016

Brazil normally requires a visa from citizens of most countries for which you apply online and have to send your passport to the consulate to have the visa attached.  But for one window of opportunity this summer, citizens of countries which have a strong Olympic history will be able to enter Brazil without a visa for maximum 90 days.  These countries include the United States, Canada, Australia and Japan.

Although this opportunity is basically intended to support the Olympics in Rio, you do not have to present Olympic tickets to take advantage.  So if you want to visit Brazil for eco-tourism & birding and HATE having to apply for visas, now’s your chance!  Honestly, I wish I had known about this in time or I would have planned Brazil for this year’s trip as well!

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Introduction To The Pantanal

Over the next few weeks I will be doing a series on our historical travels to the Panatanal in Brazil.  The first trip to the Pantanal was to the southern section accessed from Campo Grande and took place in July 2007.  It was an organized 3 night 4 days tour staying at Caiman Ecological Refuge with a very special day spent with the volunteers of Projeto Arara Azul. I had posted about it on Feathered and Free shortly afterward so I do have information I would have otherwise struggled to remember!

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The second trip was to the northern section of the Pantanal accessed from Cuiaba and took place in 2012.  This was a DIY trip using miles and points as much as possible and we drove ourselves part way down the Trans-Pantaniera in a rental car.  Two completely different ways to experience the magnificent Pantanal!

Since I was concentrating on birds, I didn’t see many mammals so here’s a realy nice video I found on Youtube showing some amazing footage of jaguars, monkeys, capybaras and more!  There are a few bird clips and a finale at Iguazu Falls at the end.  So for today, relax and enjoy the video, then I will start showing you how to organize your own trip!

 

A Couple Good IHG Pointbreaks For Eco-tourists

The latest IHG Pointbreaks list which offers specified hotels for a bargain 5000 points was less than inspiring.  Oceana & Africa missed out completely.  The complete list can be found here.  The best options are for people doing USA road trips.  This list is valid for bookings through 31 July.

Consider these possibilities if you are headed to South America.  Cuiaba is the gateway to the Pantanal.  The hotel is pretty nice although not the best location if you are going for an early start.  We did this trip in 2012 before I started this blog so I don’t have posts yet but I will be blogging my past trips as soon as I finish the current trips.

BRAZIL
HOLIDAY INN CUIABA

Although this hotel is a city property, Panama City’s small size means it’s not such a long drive to Soberania National Park.  Get yourself an award ticket to PTY, a rental car and book a few nights for a long weekend of birding!

PANAMA
CROWNE PLAZA PANAMA

New E-Book To Support Golden Conure Conservation!

As regular readers know, I am passionate about birds and the Golden Conure is one of my all-time favourite species.  In 2012, I was lucky enough to see them in the wild in their natural habitat in Brazil.  Recently, I was invited by Pompom – the leader of the Golden Conures International Facebook group to contribute an article about my trip to this wonderful project.  She assembled a dedicated group of writers from all over the world – all of whom donated their chapters so that all the proceeds from this book could go to the World Parrot Trust’s Golden Conure Survival Fund.   Mine is Chapter 16:  Goldens at the End of the Rainbow.

The e-book is being sold by Pocketmags which goes by several other names depending on where in the world you are located.

MagazineCloner.com – UK & Europe
GGADigital.com.au – Australia
Magamall.com – Canada & USA

You will need to create an account with Pocketmags before ordering.  Once you pay for the book via credit card or Paypal, the book will be stored in your account and you will need to access it via the account.  This protects the copyright of the book.

Link to order this e-book

GC book1Don’t be confused by the Avizandrum 12 issues per year thing.  The book is being published by the same folks in South Africa who publish this monthly avicultural magazine.  You will only get one e-book, it’s not a monthly thing.   The currency will probably default to your home country’s currency, I was charged in AUD.

 

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HOW TO ACCESS YOUR E-BOOK

This was the confusing part as I was not familiar with this online publishing company.  In some ways, it is kind of like the Kindle for PC app.

The book will appear in your account.  When you click on the “READ” button, you can choose which online e-reader you want to use.  They have a Silverlight or a Flash reader but you must be online to use them.

If you are using an iPad or other tablet, there are several apps available.

Lastly, most people will want to be able to read the book offline.  This works similar to Kindle for PC.  You download their reader here.

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Once you install the program, you log into it with your Pocketmags details and it will prompt you to download the e-book.  This will take awhile as it’s a large file.  You will then be able to read the book offline at your convenience.

GC book4Enjoy the book and please tell your friends.  You can learn more about Golden Conures and support them in the wild at the same time!

Rio & Rio 2 Movies Help Conservation Efforts

Call it anthropomorphism, but any movies that brings Spix’s Macaws to the attention of the general public and highlights the reasons they are now extinct in the wild is a good thing!  The first movie showed the evils of poachers and the black market wildlife trade.  The second movies highlights the ravages of deforestation by illegal loggers.  What I really loved about this interview is that Russ Mittermeier, the president of Conservation International has actual footage of the last wild Spix’s Macaw!.  I blogged about them a couple years ago and where they used to be found in Brazil.  I hope that someday, they will fly freely and safely there again!

Choosing The Best Rental Car For A Birding Trip

Birding from a rental car can be fun, easy and economical!  It allows you to be independent and to go where YOU want to go when YOU want to go there.  Since I am on a budget, I have taken this approach several times in places as different as Brazil, South Africa and Australia.  Since everyone’s needs are different, here are some things you should look at to help you decide which car you should rent for your own adventure.

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VEHICLE TYPE

  • Economy car vs larger car – if you are traveling a long distance, get a car that will be comfortable to sit in for 8-10 hours.  If you are only going short distances, a smaller economy car would be fine.  Also consider that you may want to use the car as a hide and poke your camera out the window.  Birds seem to be less frightened of parked cars than humans walking around in the open.
  • What type of roads are you driving on?  Do you need a 4WD or at least a SUV?  Or will a normal sedan car do?  Be aware that 4WDs and SUVs can be more expensive in terms of fuel consumption so don’t get one unless you really need one.  Does your preferred car hire company have restrictions on where you can drive (more about this below)?
  • Make sure there is a seat belt for each person who will be sitting in the car.
  • Will you have a lot of luggage?  Make sure you get a car with enough storage room.
  • Do you want to be flexible and camp without reservations?  Most campgrounds can take walk-in bookings for a camper-van even when their cabins may be fully booked.  Or you can transport a tent & sleeping bags if you want to rough it.

RULES & REGULATIONS

In Australia, some car rental companies have rules about where the car may be driven.  They nay not be there to enforce it, but if your car breaks down or you have an accident, you may find yourself financially liable for the full cost of the car!  Here are some potential “no-nos”:

  • Driving on dirt/unpaved roads.  There are usually exceptions for national parks or roads leading to accommodations or private homes, ask first.  Even if you hire a 4WD, they may not allow you to take the car off-road.  You need to know the road conditions at each of your birding locations so check beforehand.
  • Taking the car on a ferry. (Kangaroo Island, Bruny Island, Tasmania)
  • Driving between dusk and dawn in the Outback.  This is because the danger increases that you could hit a kangaroo or other animal.
  • Driving on a beach or through a body of water.
  • There may be some restrictions on specific areas that are too remote for the car hire company to retrieve the car if something happens to it.  An example would be north of Carnavon, in Western Australia.

GETTING THE BEST DEAL ON YOUR CAR

Once you have decided what kind of car you need, you now have to do more research to get the best price.  Even spending a few hours on this can save you hundreds of dollars so it’s worth it!  Here are some suggestions of places to look for a rental car bargain:

  • Your airline’s frequent flyer program may have discounts on the rate and/or give you extra miles.  Here’s the United Airlines & American Airlines pages, but most other airlines have them too.
  • Your employer may have coupon codes for employees of your company if they are frequent car hire customers.
  • If you use a car rental company often, join their program (such as Hertz Gold Plus Rewards) to get deals for members only.
  • Flyertalk has coupon code threads for the majors but make sure you qualify to use the code first.
  • Auto clubs such as AAA, RACQ, NRMA, etc frequently have deals.
  • Online travel agents such as Expedia & Travelocity sometimes have flash sales which they email out to their customers, this could include a coupon code.
  • In some countries, you can use Priceline to “name your own price” for a rental car.
  • Check with Autoslash, they can track your booking and advise if you can get a better deal.
  • Holiday Autos has some good value car/insurance packages for some countries.
  • Check with your credit card provider to see if rental car insurance is included.  Also make sure the country you will be traveling in in not on their exclusion list.  Unfortunately, Australia & New Zealand are usually excluded.
  • Buying a cheap Sat-Nav/GPS locally will usually work out cheaper than hiring one from the company.  Or buy extra maps for your own device.

With the correct research, you can soon be on your way to a truly individualized birding adventure of a lifetime in your very own private rental car!