Birding The Grounds Of Curicaca Lodge

I had absolutely no information about this hidden gem before we showed up, but Curicaca Lodge delivered some fantastic and easy birding.  Before the sun actually rose, we could hear the resident Hyacinth Macaws calling while some monkeys and Blue-fronted Amazons looked on.

ZC-11 ZC-10 ZC-12 ZC-13 ZC-14 ZC-15 ZC-16 ZC-17

As the sun rose, the light got better so better pics!ZC-18 ZC-19 ZC-20 ZC-21 ZC-22 ZC-23 ZC-24 ZC-25 ZC-26 ZC-27 ZC-28 ZC-29 ZC-30 ZC-31 ZC-32 ZC-33 ZC-34 ZC-35 ZC-36 ZC-37 ZC-38 ZC-39 ZC-40 ZC-41 ZC-42 ZC-43 ZC-44 ZC-45 ZC-46 ZC-47 ZC-48 ZC-49 ZC-50 ZC-51 ZC-52 ZC-53 ZC-54 ZC-55 ZC-56 ZC-57 ZC-58 ZC-59 ZC-61 ZC-62 ZC-63 ZC-65

 

Some gorgeous little hummingbirds, not sure of exact species.ZC-66 ZC-67 ZC-68 ZC-69 ZC-70 ZC-71 ZC-72

Blue-headed ParrotZC-73 ZC-74 ZC-75 ZC-76 ZC-77

WoodpeckerZC-78 ZC-79 ZC-80 ZC-81 ZC-82 ZC-83

As you can see there are plenty of birds to keep you busy at Curicaca!

A Day With Projeto Arara Azul, Pananal

Continued from Caiman Ecologico Refuge review.

This was by far the most exciting part of the trip – a chance to see how the volunteers of Projeto Arara Azul research the Hyacinth Macaws and other birds in the area!

Cezar, Julianne and Karla picked us up right after breakfast in a 4WD truck.  They were all kitted out with climbing gear so I knew they would be climbing trees to inspect nests.

100_5599

100_5516

Cezar really knows his birds, every time we passed any bird (or mammal), he would tell Julianne what number it was in the field guide and she would point it out to me so I could see what it was in English.  We saw lots of hawks, toucans and water birds  and a jabiru stork nest.  And lots of parrots!

100_5487 100_5488

Flock of Nanday Parakeets.

100_5496 100_5497 100_5498 100_5510 100_5514 100_5520 100_5521 100_5502

First we went to a nest occupied by two Hyacinths; Karla climbed up and saw no eggs so came back down.  They have natural nest which are 95% in Manduvai trees.  They have to compete for these nests with other birds and have lost many potential nests to deforestation so the Arara Azul people have constructed artificial nests.  Their program is very successful as the macaw population was less than 1500 at one point and now there are over 6000 Hyacinths in the  Pantanal!

100_5524 100_5525 100_5527 100_5528
As we drove from one nest to another, the parents would fly off angrily and squawk their heads off complaining as the team took turns climbing the tree to see if there were eggs.  Sometimes we got lucky!

100_5544 100_5547 100_5557

It was just the start of the breeding season now so many couples were preparing the nests with woodchips.  Sadly some eggs the team had found before had been stolen by predators.

100_5561

We saw several Blue-fronted Amazons and some Yellow-collared Macaws.

YCMacaw

There is one pair of Greenwing Macaws who have a nest but weren’t around it so we didn’t see them.  The highlight came at the end of the day when the team inspected a nest that was known to have eggs in it and found two baby Hyacinth chicks!

100_5562 100_5564 100_5568

After the day’s work, we returned to the Arara Azul office and Julianne showed us the usual slide show they show normal tourists but we had missed because we weren’t on the normal tour.

100_5583

It tells about the Hyacinth Macaw, the Project and what we can do to help.  Don’t buy illegally imported birds stolen from the wild.  Don’t buy products made with feathers  (like this one found in a Rio hotel)  from Macaws and Parrots as the birds are either killed to get the feathers or so badly injured, they die anyway.

They have a gift shop which helps support the project but unfortunately they don’t take credit cards (I wish I had known that before) so I bought just a few small things as much as I could.  I really love this clay rosary with birds!

100_5603

They were rehabilitating an injured Female Hyacinth they named Kris.  She was rescued from certain death as a caiman (alligator) and caught her by the tail when she was either drinking or bathing in the lake.  Thank God a cowboy was nearby and rescued her and brought her to the project to be rehabilitated.  She had lost her tail and couldn’t fly or eat.

100_5574

Now she is almost ready to be released back to the wild but she still needs to be able to crack the Acuri nuts by herself.  I wanted to give her a big hug but they don’t encourage showing affection to Macaws that need to be released to the wild and they don’t want them friendly to humans.  I did get to scratch her head a bit while one of the volunteers held her.

We rejoined the other tourists for dinner. They had done the usual lodge tours but they didn’t see half of what we did, I was so happy we went!  After dinner there was a slide show about the Caiman resort which was very interesting.

Lodge Review: Caiman Ecologico Refuge, Pantanal

*Originally published on Feathered and Free.  These historical reviews are gradually being merged to MTTW.

The Pantanal region of Brazil is one of the “holy grails” of any parrot lover or bird watcher. This vast wetland wilderness is home to the rare Hyacinth Macaw as well as some commonly found species such as Nanday Conures, Amazons, Quakers and Maximilian Pionus. I began researching two years in advance on the internet to insure we would have the best possible experience. I like to give preference to ecotourism projects that benefit endangered species and provide employment opportunities to locals who might otherwise have engaged in the heinous practice of poaching. After careful consideration, I chose the Refugio Ecologico Caiman because it is home to the Projeto Arara Azul founded by Neiva Guedes. This project has been instrumental in bringing back the Hyacinth Macaw from near extinction and studying their breeding habits. The project has succeeded in bringing the population of Hyacinth Macaws from 1500 to 6000!   Since 2007, small groups can arrange to accompany the volunteers of the project on their daily activities and studies.

100_5583

I arranged our package through Open Door Tur which is a reliable tour operator based in Campo Grande, Brazil. Campo Grande is the gateway to the Pantanal and is accessed by plane from Sao Paulo or by bus from many Brazilian cities. We took the comfortable overnight bus from Foz do Iguacu and spent one day in Campo Grande to rest up before our big adventure.

100_5414 100_5416

Sylvia from Open Door Tur picked us up at our hotel and took us on the 3.5 hour drive to Refugio Ecologico Caiman.

100_5417
We were met on arrival by the staff and immediately shown to a room near the swimming pool at Sede Lodge.

100_5418 100_5421 100_5422 100_5629

Everyone was very friendly and they explained about the board with the tours and activities.  They divide everyone into two groups-yellow (English) and blue (Portuguese).  A buffet lunch was served at noon and then we discovered that so far, we were the only tourists to arrive in our yellow group.

100_5423 100_5424

The flights were still chaotic and everyone else was delayed.  While resting after lunch, I heard the distinctive Macaw squawk and ran out into the garden to see two Hyacinth Macaws munching on nuts in a palm tree right there in the hotel garden!  Not even on a tour and already seeing Hyacinths!!!

100_5420

100_5427

The afternoon activity was the bike ride and it was only us and the guide, two other guides went along just for the fun of it, nothing else to do.  Rheas which look like ostritches were on the grounds.

100_5439

We had barely gotten out the gate when we saw about 7 or 8 Hyacinths flying around so I leapt off the bike to grab pics.

100_5440 100_5432 100_5429 100_5428

Then we passed the small airstrip and there were 2 mango trees just full of parrots-BF Amazons, Nandays and Maximillian Pionus!

100_5453 100_5457 100_5460 100_5473 100_5476 100_5470 100_5478

I flat out refused to leave the area, lucky there were no other tourists in the group!  Ina and one of the guides biked on ahead but later on, he said he didn’t see anything else.  The other guide finally managed to drag me away from the parrot trees kicking and screaming!  

100_5480

We reconfirmed with the people from Projecto Arara Azul for tomorrow.  Cezar and one of the volunteers who spoke English-Julianne would be taking us with them on their normal daily routine.  Neiva Guedes, the manager was out of the area so I didn’t get to meet her.  Cezar runs the show in the field now with help of 3 volunteers.

Dinner was at 7:30, a nice buffet.  Some of the other yellow group tourists had started to arrive, quite a mix-Americans, French, Belgians and Dutch.  We jad a short night safari to see nocturnal animals which were VERY hard to spot and it was freezing cold!  Then we made an early night so we could get up early for tomorrow.

100_5482

To be Continued…………………………..

Hyacinth Macaw (Anodorhynchus hyacinthinus)

The undisputed showstopper of the Pantanal is the magnificent Hyacinth Macaw;  native to central and eastern South America. With a length (from the top of its head to the tip of its long pointed tail) of about 100 cm (3.3 ft) it is longer than any other species of parrot. It is the largest macaw and the largest flying parrot species.

100_5527 100_5528 100_5525 100_5440

Most people come to the Pantanal in Brazil to see them as they are very easily found.  You could also see them in far eastern Bolivia and slightly into northern Paraguay.

Hyacinth map

LEARN MORE ABOUT HYACINTH MACAWS

Wikipedia

World Parrot Trust

Birdlife

National Geographic

Neotropical Birds

VIDEOS

Notice how the videographer approaches cautiously behind a tree?  This is how you get closer to wild birds!  The loud calls are unmistakeable.

Two gorgeous youngsters working up their courage to leave the nest!