A Day With Caiman Ecological Resort, Pantanal

Continuing on from the first day we arrive (lodge review) and an exciting day with Projeto Arara Azul, we now would rejoin our assigned English-speaking tour group.

After breakfast, we were all taken to the stable and assigned horses that are gentle and trained to take gringo tourists on rides.  It was a pleasant excursion but we all had sore butts afterwards and didn’t see all that much wildlife except for greedy vultures.
They made traditional Terere tea and passed it around cowboy style.  Then we went back to the lodge and I walked around the grounds to see the many birds just right there in the garden.  Heaps of Nandays and Quakers!

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We had a buffet lunch, and then went to the lake to paddle around in Canadian canoes.  Ina loved this trip as he is quite familiar with canoeing, I as nervous the whole time the bloody thing would tip over and ruin my camera gear.

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It was a pleasant enough excursion but once again, we didn’t see that much wildlife, there were a couple giant anteaters on one side of the lake.  We stayed until sunset to get some nice photos and went back to the lodge to shower and get ready for the Pantaneiro (cowboy) BBQ.

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The BBQ was fun; they had a couple people playing guitar and singing and brought the meat around churrascuria style.  Ina started teaching the locals to play the spoons which was hilarious!  We stuffed ourselves silly and crashed out.

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The final morning, we joined the tourists for breakfast and they went off on a bike ride.  Most people were checking out today as it was Sunday.  I was tired of group activities and just wanted to walk around looking at birds.  We went back to the mango trees, only the two BF Amazons were there.

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The driver from Open Door arrived on time, we said our reluctant farewells and returned to Campo Grande full of memories of the trip of a lifetime!

Nanday Parakeet (Aratinga nenday)

The Nanday Parakeet (Aratinga nenday) also known as the Black-hooded Parakeet or Nanday Conure (most common name used by aviculturists) is a medium-small mostly green Neotropical parrot.  They are extremely popular as pets so most of you will be familiar with their appearance but what you may not know is that the eye-rings of the wild birds remains black.  The eye-rings of pet birds tend to be white due to lack of sun.

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Compare the dark eye-ring of the wild bird in the top photo to this one of my pet Nanday where you can clearly see the white eye-ring.

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The range of Nanday Parakeets extends from southern Brazil throughout the Pantanal region into far eastern Bolivia and down to Paraguay.  The Pantanal is the easiest place to see them and they are can usually be found in the trees around Caiman Ecological Refuge.  I have also seen feral populations of escaped/released pet birds in Florida and heard of others in California.

Nanday

LEARN MORE ABOUT NANDAY PARAKEETS

Wikipedia

World Parrot Trust

Birdlife

Neotropical Birds

VIDEOS

Since these birds are so popular as pets it was hard to find videos of them in the wild.  Here’s a couple.

 

 

Scaly-headed Parrot (Pionus maximiliani)

The Scaly-headed Parrot (Pionus maximiliani) is a species of bird in the Psittacidae family, the true parrots. It is also called scaly-headed pionus, Maximilian pionus, Maximilian parrot, Maximilian’s pionus, or Maximilian’s parrot.

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They have a large range in eastern Brazil, central and eastern Bolivia, Paraguay, and northern Argentina.  Many people see them in the Pantanal, especially in the Caiman Ecological Refuge area.

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LEARN MORE ABOUT SCALY-HEADED PARROTS

Wikipedia

World Parrot Trust

Birdlife

Neotropical Birds

VIDEOS

For some reason these birds always seem to be eating!

 

 

 

Lodge Review: Caiman Ecologico Refuge, Pantanal

*Originally published on Feathered and Free.  These historical reviews are gradually being merged to MTTW.

The Pantanal region of Brazil is one of the “holy grails” of any parrot lover or bird watcher. This vast wetland wilderness is home to the rare Hyacinth Macaw as well as some commonly found species such as Nanday Conures, Amazons, Quakers and Maximilian Pionus. I began researching two years in advance on the internet to insure we would have the best possible experience. I like to give preference to ecotourism projects that benefit endangered species and provide employment opportunities to locals who might otherwise have engaged in the heinous practice of poaching. After careful consideration, I chose the Refugio Ecologico Caiman because it is home to the Projeto Arara Azul founded by Neiva Guedes. This project has been instrumental in bringing back the Hyacinth Macaw from near extinction and studying their breeding habits. The project has succeeded in bringing the population of Hyacinth Macaws from 1500 to 6000!   Since 2007, small groups can arrange to accompany the volunteers of the project on their daily activities and studies.

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I arranged our package through Open Door Tur which is a reliable tour operator based in Campo Grande, Brazil. Campo Grande is the gateway to the Pantanal and is accessed by plane from Sao Paulo or by bus from many Brazilian cities. We took the comfortable overnight bus from Foz do Iguacu and spent one day in Campo Grande to rest up before our big adventure.

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Sylvia from Open Door Tur picked us up at our hotel and took us on the 3.5 hour drive to Refugio Ecologico Caiman.

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We were met on arrival by the staff and immediately shown to a room near the swimming pool at Sede Lodge.

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Everyone was very friendly and they explained about the board with the tours and activities.  They divide everyone into two groups-yellow (English) and blue (Portuguese).  A buffet lunch was served at noon and then we discovered that so far, we were the only tourists to arrive in our yellow group.

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The flights were still chaotic and everyone else was delayed.  While resting after lunch, I heard the distinctive Macaw squawk and ran out into the garden to see two Hyacinth Macaws munching on nuts in a palm tree right there in the hotel garden!  Not even on a tour and already seeing Hyacinths!!!

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The afternoon activity was the bike ride and it was only us and the guide, two other guides went along just for the fun of it, nothing else to do.  Rheas which look like ostritches were on the grounds.

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We had barely gotten out the gate when we saw about 7 or 8 Hyacinths flying around so I leapt off the bike to grab pics.

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Then we passed the small airstrip and there were 2 mango trees just full of parrots-BF Amazons, Nandays and Maximillian Pionus!

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I flat out refused to leave the area, lucky there were no other tourists in the group!  Ina and one of the guides biked on ahead but later on, he said he didn’t see anything else.  The other guide finally managed to drag me away from the parrot trees kicking and screaming!  

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We reconfirmed with the people from Projecto Arara Azul for tomorrow.  Cezar and one of the volunteers who spoke English-Julianne would be taking us with them on their normal daily routine.  Neiva Guedes, the manager was out of the area so I didn’t get to meet her.  Cezar runs the show in the field now with help of 3 volunteers.

Dinner was at 7:30, a nice buffet.  Some of the other yellow group tourists had started to arrive, quite a mix-Americans, French, Belgians and Dutch.  We jad a short night safari to see nocturnal animals which were VERY hard to spot and it was freezing cold!  Then we made an early night so we could get up early for tomorrow.

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To be Continued…………………………..

Hyacinth Macaw (Anodorhynchus hyacinthinus)

The undisputed showstopper of the Pantanal is the magnificent Hyacinth Macaw;  native to central and eastern South America. With a length (from the top of its head to the tip of its long pointed tail) of about 100 cm (3.3 ft) it is longer than any other species of parrot. It is the largest macaw and the largest flying parrot species.

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Most people come to the Pantanal in Brazil to see them as they are very easily found.  You could also see them in far eastern Bolivia and slightly into northern Paraguay.

Hyacinth map

LEARN MORE ABOUT HYACINTH MACAWS

Wikipedia

World Parrot Trust

Birdlife

National Geographic

Neotropical Birds

VIDEOS

Notice how the videographer approaches cautiously behind a tree?  This is how you get closer to wild birds!  The loud calls are unmistakeable.

Two gorgeous youngsters working up their courage to leave the nest!