A Quick Visit To The Kabwata Cultural Village, Lusaka

I always love to go shopping at local markets, especially ones where the crafts people are on hand selling their own creations.  So we took a taxi for a negotiated fare outside the Intercontinental to the Kabwata Cultural Village including about 30 minutes waiting time.

It’s basically a group of huts around an open area where cars can park.  Each hut is occupied by one or more crafts people selling their wares.  Some sellers have open air stalls.  Bargaining is essential, aim for roughly half what they quote up front.  We weren’t after big ticket items so I wasn’t as ruthless a bargainer as I had been back in the day but we came away with some cool stuff!

This hut was like a women’s co-op or something, they had nice stuff!

Interesting signs on the way home.

Lusaka Secretariat

Whatever this was, I missed the shot, but that tree just looks so funny with the white trunk!

The taxi dropped us back  at the hotel and it was time to pack up and go to the airport.  Little did we know the trouble was yet to come……………….

Hotel Review: Intercontinental, Lusaka

Our journey through Zambia was coming to an end and the next day we would fly to Windhoek via JNB.  After all those bus rides and accommodation ranging from backpackers to cheap hotels to safari lodges.  Now it was time to pamper ourselves in a bit of luxury courtesy of my Chase Free Night benefit with the IHG Rewards card at the Intercontinental Lusaka.

We took a taxi from the Lusaka Intercity Bus Terminus, I think it was 30-40ish Kwacha.  One of these days I have to remember to write down taxi fares.

The large lobby had a special desk for IHG elite members which I had from my IHG credit card so we had a relaxed check-in, then admired some artwork before heading up to the room with our out-of-place backpacks.

The room was typical of a 4 star hotel and had a nice view of the swimming pool.

Yay, a bath tub!

As an elite, I was gifted with wine and fruit in the room, a nice touch!

Free wifi that works very well!

We decided to just hang out and relax, I wanted to catch up online so we got room service for dinner.  I had some kind of pasta, my husband had kebabs and chips.  We aren’t foodies so it was all good.  I really just wanted internet!

Our hunger sated, I looked out the window for birds, not too many around.  If we hadn’t been so tired we would have gone for a walk, the grounds were pretty nice.

Safari Bar is near the restaurant which overlooks the swimming pool.

The fabulous buffet breakfast wasn’t included on a free stay but it sure was delicious!  We ate so much, we didn’t need lunch!

Waffles & pancakes

Omelette station

Afterwards we went down to the pool.  It was a bit too cold to swim that day so we just hung out a bit.

Dark-capped Bulbul

We really enjoyed out stay here and the staff treated us very well.  One man told us where to find cheaper taxis ( the official hotel taxis are expensive) and when check out was delayed due to a new person not knowing how to process the free stay, I was gifted 5000 IHG Rewards points without even asking!  They have a free airport shuttle which waited for us to settle our bill.  The flight was delayed anyways.  I’m happy to recommend the Intercontinental Lusaka!

South Luangwa Game Drive Afternoon/Evening #2

Once again we headed off at 4pm for our last game drive in South Luangwa NP.  Having seen our target bird (Lilian’s Lovebird) and the stunning leopard in the morning, we were ready  to just relax and enjoy this drive, come what may.

Mama hippo with a cute little baby hippo

We continued along the river to see the nesting areas for the Bee-eaters.  In season, this is where you find the striking Carmine Bee-eater.  At least we did see some White-fronted Bee-eaters, which are also very lovely birds!

We hit the rush hour traffic.

Here we see a dead crocodile that has been pretty well picked over.

Time for the traditional sunset viewing and snack.

This is where I had been sitting in the truck for all the drives, except I did get shotgun on the first morning drive.  Take careful note of how open this vehicle is.  Nothing to prevent an animal from jumping inside if it wanted to.

A lonely Fish Eagle looks for one last meal before bedtime.

It does get dark very quickly once the sun sets.  The nocturnal animals were coming out eager to find food.  We returned to the dead crocodile and found a hyaena chowing down.  Yuck!

Notice the glowing eyes from the spotlight, this is how they spot animals in the dark.

I hope this rabbit doesn’t become someone’s dinner!

Do our butts look big in this?

And then it happened.  Out of nowhere, a pride of lions was spotted.  We were the first truck to find them and had them all to ourselves for quite a while.  Remember how open the truck is?  Well take note of how close we were, I got the mirrors in on purpose.  There we were, basically room service for these hungry lions!  The guide told us to stay quiet and keep our hands and bodies inside the vehicle.  My heart was beating rapidly as I realized that they could leap inside anytime they wanted for a nice human buffet dinner.  The logical part of me was saying that the guide sees this all the time and wouldn’t have come so close if there was any real danger. 

This last one seems to be saying, “Yeah, I know I could eat you but I’m going to let you go instead”.

What a way to finish an amazing stay at the South Luangwa National Park!

South Luangwa Game Drive Morning #2

Fasten your seatbelts because this is going to be an epic ride!

Just like the previous morning, we stopped at several vantage points to watch the sunrise.

Waiting our turn to pay the $25 entrance fee.

Security is tight so don’t try to get away without paying.

Unless the “guards” are otherwise occupied!

See anything interesting?

How about a closer look?

OMG a leopard actually strolling along within meters of our truck!

Flushed with the excitement of seeing a wild leopard up close, we proceeded on the rest of the game drive.  We had a break at a point overlooking the river.

Birds were out in full force!  A Lilian’s Lovebird trying to hide

Woodland Kingfisher also trying to hide

Cute family of Helmeted Guineafowls

The ever-elegant Lilac-breasted Roller

Grey-headed Kingfisher

Some tourists can’t hide from the hot sun………….

…………….but hippos can hide in the river!

Yet another sighting of Lilian’s Lovebirds!

Small crocodile

These guys work in the park.

And once again it was back to Marula Lodge for lunch and a siesta!

South Luangwa Game Drive Afternoon/Evening #1

We were given afternoon tea at 3:30pm, then left on the game drive around 4pm-ish.  It was still pretty hot and most birds and animals were resting.  As dusk approached, they started coming out.

Meyers Parrots in flight

Hammerkops

Grey-crowned Cranes

It’s always a pleasure to see the beautiful Lilac-breasted Roller

Don’t bother me!

Openbill Stork

South Luangwa River, a great place to see hippos and elephants

Although the showier Carmine Bee-eater wasn’t around this time of year, thankfully the elegant White-fronted Bee-eaters were.  After all someone has to eat all those bees!

Meves Starling

Art in the middle of the reserve

Notice the safari vehicle without a roof, these would be very hot with no place to hide!

It was just as the sun was starting to set we spotted a small flock of Lillian’s Lovebirds!  I was thrilled to find these little beauties!

A sweet little family!

The sun was setting and I was losing the light, plus the other people in the truck weren’t was bird-crazed as I was!

Sunset stop with a snack

The sun goes down fast and the nocturnal animals started coming out.  Unfortunately, I am even worse at night photography than I am at day photography.

Hyaena

Hippo

We slowly made our way out of the park where dinner awaited us back at Marula Lodge.

South Luangwa Game Drive Morning #1

I have a ridiculous number of photos so I will be breaking up this series into 4 parts and selecting a few key birds to profile.  In this post, I will be writing about the 1st morning game drive the day after we arrived at Marula Lodge.

We had a 5am wake up call, then served a light breakfast at 5:30.  At 6am, we were off to the park!

The sun was coming up as the driver/guide pulled up to the gate and we each paid $25 for the entry fee.  You are advised to keep your ticket as you can use the same one for the full day but you have to buy a new one each day.  Cash only so be prepared!

We drove slowly over the bridge and into the park, stopping for all creatures great and small.

Helmeted Guinea-fowl

African Fish Eagle

There are quite a few of these little guys.  While I do have the checklist made with the guide, putting a name to a photo is a bit harder!

Grey-headed Kingfisher

Hornbill

Probably an eagle nest

Meves Starling

Lions were fairly common, we saw at least 1 on each drive.

Mid-morning snack

Perspective of how close we were in an open vehicle

Hammerkop

Hornbill

Southern Cordonbleu

Red-necked Francolin

Monitor Lizard

Giraffe with a hitch-hiker

Grey Go-away Bird

We returned to the lodge around noon-ish in time for lunch, then time to rest or swim or whatever until the afternoon.

Lodge Review: Marula Lodge, South Luangwa NP, Zambia

South Luangwa National Park in Zambia is arguably the best safari location I have been to in Africa, and I have been to quite a few!  But before we get to the safari details, first we need a place to stay.  After lots of research, I found the Marula Lodge which is a mere 5 minutes from the gate.  They cater for all budgets with backpacker dorms, camping tents and chalet rooms.  We had a special Backpacker Package for around $450 which included 3 nights for us both in a tent, all meals and 2 game drives per day-morning and late afternoon/evening.  You can pay with a credit card but there is a 5% surcharge, to me it was worth it for the added security and bank transfer fees on my end would have been about the same.

 

We were picked up at the bus station in Mfuwe and driven to the lodge about 5 minutes away.  You are advised not to try to walk as there could be dangerous animals around, lions don’t know the borders of the park!

Heading towards the main building which houses reception, the restaurant, bar, souvenir shop and bathrooms.

Do take some time to read the notice board!

We tried several times but the wifi just didn’t work during our stay.

Daily schedule.

Office building, I think the backpacker dorm is in here as well.

Our tent, here it is by night.

And in the early morning.

Sorry for the blurry shot, you can see the basic set up-2 cots and a table in the middle.  They give you a rechargeable lantern.

The showers and toilets are in this open-air structure.  I got a bit nervous to go there at night but there are security guards around who will escort you if needed.

You hook a chain across the entrance to show it’s occupied.

Our safari vehicle, please note that it is covered on top!  This is an issue as the sun gets very hot during the day and we passed quite a few other vehicles with open tops and red-faced tourists!

Map of South Luangwa NP

Wifi details, I would say don’t bother!  But come prepared with whatever you need for the duration of your stay-downloaded entertainment, books or whatever.

Here’s the restaurant.  You can see the bar in the rear and buffet table with red & white table cloth.  Each couple or group gets their own table.

Breakfast is a small buffet, lunch and dinner are served on a plate.

Some of the hand-made souvenirs from nearby villagers.  Support the local economy and bring something special home!

Dinner the next day, served after the evening game drive.

The bathrooms in the main building have some pretty amazing artwork!

The period between lunch and the afternoon snack is free.  You can sit by the river and watch for animals or have a dip in the pool.  We did both!

During siesta time, I was hanging out at the pool and watched an uninvited guest sneak in a free swim!  Thankfully I was on a lounger and not in the pool at the time!

Marula Lodge is an amazing place with a gorgeous setting and has everything you need for a successful safari.  The management is knowledgeable and friendly, the food is good and the guides top-notch!  We loved this place and were very sorry when we had to leave after 3 days, most people on Trip Advisor were also very happy.  I can highly recommend the Backpacker Special as one of the best deals you could find in Africa!

Stay tuned for our game drives in South Luangwa NP!

 

The Zambian Bus Experience Part 2 – Lusaka To Mfuwe (South Luangwa NP)

There is only one bus company at time of writing that does the trip directly from Lusaka to Mfuwe on one bus.  Otherwise you have to change buses in Chipata, get a minibus or hire a taxi if you miss the last one.  Jonda Bus is a good bus company and the 2 drivers we had (outbound and return) were safe and didn’t use their phones while driving.

OUTBOUND LUSAKA TO MFUWE

There is only one direct bus to Mfuwe leaving at 5am but you should be there by 4:30 max to board and claim your seat.  I strongly recommend buying tickets the day before at least as there were no extra tickets available the time we arrived.  I hadn’t been aware this was a 2 x 3 seater and after the last experience on this configuration, I wanted to switch our 2 seats to 3 seats with an empty middle and pay for the extra seat.  It wasn’t possible as the bus was full.  Tickets are 220 Kwacha ($23-ish) and for a 11-12 hour bus trip I would have gladly paid for more comfort.

For the return we did book 3 seats, much better!  Look how cramped we were, my husband is a big guy!

The cooler/esky in the front contains juice boxes which are passed out together with a bag of chips, included in the fare.  At stops, people would come up selling drinks and snacks.

We passed through several small villages with interesting markets.  They also make roadside stops for toiletting in the bush but be careful!  I was forced to use one of these and a local lady cautioned me to beware of snakes!   From that point, I drank sparingly until we arrived in Mfuwe.

We reached Chipata around lunch time-1pm-ish.  They have pay toilets at the bus station and a few small shops for food and drinks.

Chipata was the largest town after Lusaka.

The toilet is behind the Jonda ticket office.

We reached Mfuwe around 4:30pm and the first thing I did was go into the office and buy 3 tickets for the return to Lusaka!  A lady from the Murula Lodge was waiting for us in a safari truck so off we went!

 

BACK TO LUSAKA

Same thing, bus leaves at 5am, be there by 4:30 latest.  Seat numbers aren’t written on tickets although we were quick to claim the 3 right behind the driver to maximize leg room.  These are the best seats on the bus if you can get them.

Wow, I look so tired!

It was dark when we left so I tried to sleep but failed.  After a couple hours we arrived in Chipata and the bus started to fill up.  I had to show our 3 tickets a few times to people who wanted to take one of our seats.

Getting close to Lusaka!

Grabbing a last minute drink for the staff.

Once we arrived at Lusaka Intercity Bus Terminal, we grabbed a taxi to the Intercontinental Lusaka (great use of a Chase free night) for some well-deserved luxury!

 

Grey Crowned Crane (Balearica regulorum)

The Grey Crowned Crane (Balearica regulorum) is a bird in the crane family Gruidae.  Although they are the national bird of Uganda and depicted on the flag, I didn’t see one in the wild until South Luangwa NP in Zambia.

They have a huge range throughout most of central and southern Africa so odds are good you will see one while on safari.  I took the photos above at South Luangwa NP in Zambia.  They are the national bird of Uganda and many people also see them in Tanzania.

LEARN MORE ABOUT GREY CROWNED CRANES

Wikipedia

Birdlife

International Crane Foundation

VIDEOS

Not only are they beautiful and elegant, they can also bust some moves!

Match-making for cranes, love is in the air!

 

Crimson-breasted Shrike (Laniarius atrococcineus)

The Crimson-breasted Shrike (Laniarius atrococcineus) or the Crimson-breasted Gonolek, (‘gonolek’ – supposedly imitative of its call), is a dramatically coloured southern African bird with black upper parts with a white flash on the wing, and bright scarlet underparts.

I don’t know why this beauty was trying to hide from the camera!

His Namibian cousin was not so shy!

They have a large range within southern Africa but even with that bright crimson breast they can be hard to find!  My eagle-eyed guide, Chiinga found the Zambian one as we were leaving the Machile IBA in Zambia.  I found the Namibian one on my own, he did stand out!

LEARN MORE ABOUT CRIMSON-BREASTED SHRIKES

Wikipedia

Birdlife

Botswana Tourism

VIDEOS

It seems these birds have to work hard for their meals.  A grasshopper proves to be easy prey.

If you want to eat a scorpion, you have to work much harder!