Mindo’s Waterfall Trail

The road that goes up into the hills is actually called San Lorenzo Road but it is also called the Waterfall Trail because of the hikes in the area to various waterfalls.  There is also a zipline company operating here.  You can walk from Mindo town if you are fit and keen, otherwise a taxi can drop you at the birding place and you can walk down the hill.  Unfortunately I didn’t get a photo of the drop off place but there is a fork from the side of the road about 2-3km up the hill leading to a farm.

We birded this area twice.  The first day was with one of the best bird guides in Mindo – Alex Luna.  The second day we went back on our own as Alex was booked that day to try again for Rose-faced Parrots.

The weather plays a huge part in how lucky you will get.  So you can imagine I wasn’t thrilled with this kind of fog!

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This is the entrance to San Lorenzo Road.  Keep driving a few km, look for a fork leading to a farm on your right, then jump out and start birding.DSCN1287 DSCN1289 DSCN1290

Here’s some shots from Day 1.  Alex tried his best but the weather was working against us.  We did get some Red-billed Parrots, Bronze-winged Parrots, Collared Aracari, Choco Toucan and some beautiful Tanagers but the photos didn’t come out.

Day 1 Bird List

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Here’s some shots from Day 2.  This time the weather was slightly better, the fog lifted earlier and we hung around until 9:30.  The Rose-faced Parrots finally did show up but it was closer to 9am when they did and they hung around quite a while so we got to spend some quality time watching them.  We also saw Red-billed Parrots, a quick fly-by of Maroon-tailed Parakeets and a lot more!  I tried to keep the photos together but we were using 2 cameras – a Canon 60D & a Nikon Coolpix P900 (the one with 83x zoom).

Day 2 Bird List

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This is Alex Luna, the wonderful birding guide in Mindo.  You can contact him by email ayalu_82@hotmail.com  if you would like to organize a trip with him.  He speaks English very well, knows all the birds and if you have target birds, he will do all he can to make sure you see them (though he can’t do anything about the weather)!

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Bronze-winged Parrot (Pionus chalcopterus)

The Bronze-winged Parrot (Pionus chalcopterus) is a short-tailed stocky parrot found in forest and woodland in north-western South America.  They are one of the easier parrots to find in their range.

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They are found mostly in Ecuador & Colombia with a sparse population in Venezuela.  I saw them just about everywhere – Umbrellabird Lodge flybys, Mindo‘s Waterfall Trail, Milpe Bird Sanctuary, Rio Silanche, Rio Blanco in Colombia near Manizales.

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LEARN MORE ABOUT BRONZE-WINGED PARROTS

Wikipedia

World Parrot Trust

Birdlife

Neotropical Birds

VIDEOS

This was a challenge as there isn’t much video footage of these beautiful parrots from the wild but there are a lot of pet bird videos on YouTube.  Here’s a couple, at least you can hear this one!

Video filmed through digiscoping.

 

 

Choco Toucan (Ramphastos brevis)

The Choco Toucan (Ramphastos brevis) is a large, mainly black bird found in humid lowland and foothill forests on the Pacific slope of Colombia and Ecuador. Within its range, extensive habitat destruction is taking place, but it remains fairly common locally.

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They are only found in Ecuador & Colombia but much of their habitat is difficult to reach by the average tourist.  Mindo is probably the easiest place to see them readily.

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LEARN MORE ABOUT CHOCO TOUCANS

Wikipedia

Birdlife

Neotropical Birds

VIDEOS

Ever wonder what sound a Choco Toucan makes?

 

A Stroll Around Mindo Town

After visiting Paz de los Aves & the Oilbird cave, it was starting to rain pretty heavily so we asked Daniel to drop us at the El Quetzal Chocolate Factory in the town of Mindo.

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They have some nice artwork here, also chocolate for sale.DSCN1283

The tour is pretty interesting, they show you how chocolate is made from the cacao bean.DSCN1284 DSCN1285

Cool looking moth on the balcony.DSCN1286

After the tour, we sat on the balcony drinking hot chocolate and watching birds outside like this Choco Toucan and some parrots doing a flyby.  IMG_3201 IMG_3205 IMG_3208 IMG_3212 IMG_3209a

When the rain let up, we walked around the small town for awhile.  I liked the bird motifs on some of the shops.IMG_3213 IMG_3214

I love this logo and wanted to buy a t-shirt but couldn’t find one.IMG_3215

The rain started up again so we headed back to Sachatamia by taxi ($3) to swim in the indoor pool and relax.

Oilbirds (Steatornis caripensis)

The Oilbirds (Steatornis caripensis), locally known as the guácharo, are birds found in the northern areas of South America (including the island of Trinidad in the Republic of Trinidad and Tobago). Nesting in colonies in caves, they are nocturnal feeders on the fruits of the oil palm and tropical laurels. They are the only nocturnal flying fruit-eating birds in the world (the kakapo is flightless). They forage at night, with specially adapted eyesight. However they navigate by echolocation in the same way as bats, and are one of the few kinds of birds known to do so. They produce a high-pitched clicking sound of around 2 kHz that is audible to humans.

DSCN1264 DSCN1251 IMG_3186aAlthough they have a large range in the northern part of South America, there are a few Oilbird caves which are easier to access such as Chontal near Mindo, Rio Claro in Colombia & Asa Wright’s in Trinidad.

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LEARN MORE ABOUT OILBIRDS

Wikipedia

Birdlife

Aves Ecuador

Audubon

Neotropical Birds

VIDEOS

Mindo Oilbirds showing the love!

Night flights

 

 

 

Visiting “Cueva De Los Tayos” Oilbird Cave Near Mindo

There aren’t many places around the world where Oilbirds can be seen so easily so I wanted to visit the Cueva de los Tayos Oilbird Cave which is about a 90 minute drive from Mindo.  It can be easily slotted in after a visit to Angel Paz if you have your own transport as the Oilbirds can be seen any time of day.  We saw them around 1pm-ish, a time when other birds would be taking a siesta.

The route out to El Chontal where the cave is located is pretty interesting as it passes a few small villages and some nice farmland.  Most of it is a good tarred road but there are some rough roads to travel so if you are renting a car, choose accordingly.  I thought it best to leave the driving to the locals, in our case a driver arranged by Sachatamia Lodge named Daniel.

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After arriving at the farm owner’s house, a lady joined us to show us the way to the cave.  We drove for about 10 minutes, then pulled up outside the cave.DSCN1241 DSCN1243 DSCN1244 DSCN1245

It’s less than 5 minutes walking to a place where the Oilbirds can be seen but a bit slippery so I was taking it slow.DSCN1247

It’s pretty dark in there and kind of eerie to see those big eyes staring down at you.  The website describes them as “scary” but I thought they were cute!DSCN1251 DSCN1257 DSCN1264 DSCN1266a IMG_3186a IMG_3197

I am standing at the place to observe the birds and the guide is at the gate which is on the roadside.DSCN1268

 

The guide is probably wondering what is keeping me so long!  But not every day I get to see Oilbirds so I was taking my time!DSCN1273

Afterwards we drove back to Mindo through the countryside as the weather started getting drizzly.DSCN1274 DSCN1275 DSCN1276

Getting To Ecuador With Airline Miles

Most frequent flier programs divide the continent of South America into northern and southern regions.  Ecuador, which is one of the best destinations for eco-tourism falls into the northern region.  I already have a blog with my recommendations for which programs to join if you are new to the world of miles and points.

The gateway cities for Ecuador include Quito (UIO) and Guayaquil (GYE).  I have a separate post for using Guayaquil as a gateway city so in this post I will be using Quito as the example.  In any case, it will be the same number of miles.     Once you have been in the miles and points game for awhile, you will get a feel for which airline to use where but if you are just starting out, Wikipedia will show you a list of all airlines that fly into Quito.

 

ONE WORLD OPTIONS

From North America you can use American Airlines or LATAM.

From South America you can use LATAM.

From Australia and New Zealand you can use Qantas or LATAM via Santiago.

From UK and Europe you can travel via the USA using BA or IB to get to the USA, then AA, LAN or TAM to South America.

From Asia or Africa there are no direct flights so you will need to travel via the USA or Europe.

STAR ALLIANCE OPTIONS

From North America you can use United, Avianca-Taca or Copa

From South America you can use Avianca-Taca

From Australia and New Zealand, Europe, Asia and Africa there are no direct flights, you can use NZ to Buenos Aires (EZE) or travel via the USA.  Depending on which program’s miles you have, this may require one or two awards.

SKYTEAM OPTIONS

From North America you can use AeroMexico or Delta.

From Europe you can use Air Europa, Air France or KLM, or you can connect in the USA on Delta.

From Australia, Asia and Africa there are no direct flights, you will need to travel via the USA or Europe.

 

HOW MANY MILES WILL IT COST?

Every airline member of the 3 main alliances has it’s own frequent flier program.  They often have alliances with other airlines outside the program.  I have made some reference charts for the airline alliances and I strongly recommend that you check out the program of the airline in your country and the USA based partners of each program as the USA airlines tend to have the most lucrative bonuses.  Americans can get very generous credit card bonuses.  Details of credit card partners (and other partners) will be on each airline’s website, however often there are more lucrative sign up bonuses.  Details are usually posted in the Flyer Talk thread so I strongly suggest you read this thread and the Miles Buzz forum before you apply for any cards just in case a better bonus has been offered.  I don’t have any affiliate links and I recommend you do extensive research on your own when applying for airline credit cards.

USING ONE WORLD

AMERICAN AIRLINES

No matter where you live, frequent flyer programs based in the USA usually offer the best deals but it’s still a good idea to look at other members of the alliance.  Try to avoid carriers that charge a fuel surcharge.  Looking at AA’s award chart, we can see that Ecuador is in South America Zone 1.

So let’s look at the chart.  AA no longer has all zones on one convenient chart so you need to look at the website for the region you are departing from.  You will notice there are taxes and fees with certain routes and that the awards are prices as one way trips.

We can see that a South Pacific to Central/South America award will cost 45,000 miles each way (90,000 round trip) in economy, 82,500 (160,000 round trip) in business class and 112,500 each way (225,000 round trip in first class.  AA doesn’t allow you to transit the USA on this award so you must fly on the only carriers that operate between Australia and South America-Qantas and LAN.

If you are based in North America, economy will cost 30,000  each way (60,000 round trip), business class  is 57,500 each way (115,000 round trip) and first is 85,000 each way or 170,000 round trip.  You would be flying on AA or LAN.

AVIOS (BA OR IB)

Avios can be a great bargain for shorter flights.  The awards are priced by distance flown per segment rather than zone to zone.

Avios

Using the Great Circle Mapper, we can see that a direct flight from Miami to Quito would cost 10,000 Avios each way, a direct flight from LAX to Quito would cost 20,000 Avios and a direct flight from NYC to Quito would cost 12,500 Avios.  If you are using credit card miles, transferring them to Avios rather than UA or AA could save you some points.  If you need a connection from elsewhere in the USA to the gateway city, you need to pay for that segment separately with the Avios cost for the distance flown.  Example OKC-MIA is 1222 miles so you need to add 10,000 Avios to the total price of the ticket.

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QANTAS FREQUENT FLYER

For Qantas, it is easiest to use their points calculator to see how many points you need, then look for availability.  Not all itineraries can be booked online, sometimes you have to call them.  Using the example of Sydney to Quito we can see that they route through the USA (probably because the Santiago route is very hard to get) and economy is 60,000 points one way.  On the next screen you see the points plus taxes & fees that must be paid by credit card.

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If you are based somewhere else, leave a comment if you don’t understand this part and I will help you out.  Meanwhile, here is a reference list for other One World carriers.

USING STAR ALLIANCE

United, Avianca and Singapore are probably the most common Star Alliance programs in use because of good credit card deals and buy miles promos.

UNITED AIRLINES

United Airlines is a USA based carrier that offers one way awards on its own flights and other Star Alliance carriers.  Due to the size of their award chart, I can’t paste it here so will link to it and give examples.  For example Seattle to Quito has availability on several dates which I picked at random.  They are colour coded for economy, business/first or all three classes.  Make sure you scroll all the way down to get the best price.  Some routes are only 20k and others are a whopping 45k!

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AVIANCA TACA LIFEMILES

Lifemiles has some very attractive promos to buy and share miles.  While this doesn’t give you a free trip, it can greatly reduce the cost of a trip especially if you are after business or first class awards.  You need to be an existing member of Lifemiles when they announce  a promo so join now if you haven’t already.  Use their calculator to get an idea of award costs.  This will be a range which depends on class and any promos.

 

They have a Star Alliance Award chart and you can see that they divide the continent of South America into northern and southern regions.  Ecuador is in the Northern South America region.   Australia and New Zealand are in the “Others” category.  The chart shows one way awards.  Personally,  I prefer to keep my Lifemiles for intra-South/Central America awards which can get pricy but are bargains using awards.

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SINGAPORE AIRLINES

SQ miles have become much easier to get in recent years.  Americans can use Chase Ultimate Rewards, Citi Thank You, Amex Membership Rewards.  Aussies can use the Australian Amex Membership Rewards.  Everyone can use SPG.  Just beware of the high fuel (carrier) surcharges when you use Krisflyer.  Personally, I would be happy to use SQ miles for intra-South America awards where surcharges are low or even non-exixtant but would use other programs to get from Australia to South America.  SQ has only one region for all of South America so their awards can be a bargain if you are traveling around the continent!

SQ South America

I don’t use all the programs that are out there but these are the most commonly used programs by travel hackers in the USA and Australia so do some research to see which one works for you!  Bear in mind that the tickets are not completely free, there is usually a booking fee of $25-50 and various taxes, but you would have to pay the taxes whether you pay cash or miles for the ticket in any case.

WHAT ABOUT JUST PAYING CASH (WELL, CREDIT CARD)?

No, it’s not blasphemy but sometimes it is a good idea to save your miles and simply pay for the ticket.  The 3 main Central/South American carriers – Avianca, Copa & LATAM have been very competitive lately ex-USA and releasing some very good deals.

Andean Cock-of-the-Rock (Rupicola peruvianus)

The Andean Cock-of-the-Rock (Rupicola peruvianus), also known as tunki (Quechua), is a large passerine bird of the cotinga family native to Andean cloud forests in South America. It is widely regarded as the national bird of Peru.

IMG_2873 DSCN1081 DSCN1076 DSCN1083 DSCN1074Watching their antics as they dance around hoping to attract the ladies is one of the highlights of a birding trip to South America.  There are a few leks easily accessible to tourists- Paz de las Aves (Angel Paz) near Mindo in Ecuador; Jardin in Colombia & the Cock of the Rock Lodge in Manu, Peru.

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LEARN MORE ABOUT COCKS OF THE ROCK

Wikipedia

Birdlife

Neotropical Birds

VIDEOS

This is a case where you need to see and hear the birds to fully appreciate them.  Here’s a few clips filmed (in order) in Mindo, Jardin & Manu.

 

Morning Birding At Paz De Las Aves (Angel Paz), Mindo

The Refugio Paz de las Aves, also known as Angel Paz’s place is a highlight for all visitors to Mindo whether they are primarily birders or not.  Angel and his sons make it easy for everyone to see some really amazing birds.  Our guide was Venecio who speaks English well and knows all the birds.  The location is off the main road and uphill quite a bit so it’s best to organize some transport through your lodge.  We had Sachatamia organize a driver named Daniel who took us here (leaving at 5am), waited for us to see all the birds, then took us to the Oilbird cave and back to Mindo.  I also emailed Angel Paz to book in advance so he knew to expect us.  It’s $30 for the full morning tour (April 2016) which includes the Cock of the Rock lek, several antpittas, birding along the roadside and close-up viewing of hummingbirds and tanagers back at the lodge where breakfast is served.  This is a prime example of how local people embrace eco-tourism and protect the wildlife on their property.  Map & Description

COCK OF THE ROCK LEK

First stop at 5:45am was the Cock of the Rock lek.  We spent about 45 minutes here just watching these amazing birds dance around trying to attract the ladies.

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Dark-backed Wood Quail near the lek.DSCN1093 DSCN1095 DSCN1097 DSCN1103

ANTPITTAS

Then we drove to a few places where Venecio coaxed normally shy antpittas out with worms which form part of their normal diet.  We saw two species – Yellow-breasted Antpitta (2 different ones), Giant Antpitta (Maria).  Shakira didn’t show up that day.

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Near the Antpitta place, we saw a beautiful Golden-headed Quetzal perched high in a tree.

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BIRDING THE AREA – ROADSIDE

Next we drove up and down the road looking for birds and stopping to observe them better.  Here are a few highlights that I managed to get photos of.  My full bird list is on eBird.

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Orange-breasted Fruit-eaterDSCN1172 DSCN1179 DSCN1174

Golden-headed QuetzalIMG_2908 IMG_2891 IMG_2883

We also saw some Red-billed Parrots fly over but I missed the photo.

LODGE AREA

There are a couple areas to see here.  One deck overlooks a banana feeder where tanagers and toucans can be seen.

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Blue-Winged Mountain Tanager DSCN1200

Crimson-rumped Toucanet DSCN1210 DSCN1208 IMG_3139 IMG_3104

More Blue-Winged Mountain TanagerIMG_3129 IMG_3138 IMG_3121

Toucan BarbetIMG_3127

Flame-faced TanagerGolden-naped Tanager IMG_3149 IMG_3143

Blue-grey Tanager

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HUMMINGBIRD FEEDERS

There are several hummingbird feeders at the deck where breakfast is served and I was so engrossed by the tiny beauties I almost forgot to eat breakfast!  Highlights here were Booted Racket-tails, White-necked Jacobin, Velvet-purple Coronet, Violet-tailed Sylph, Rufous-Tailed Hummingbird and more!  Full list as per Venecio is on eBird.

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Difficult as it was to tear ourselves away from the hummingbirds, our birding day was just beginning and we had a 2 hour drive to the Oilbird Cave so off we went!

Violet-tailed Sylph (Aglaiocercus coelestis)

The Volet-tailed Sylph (Aglaiocercus coelestis) is a species of hummingbird.which lives in areas from 300–2,100 metres (980–6,890 ft) in elevation, though typically above 900 metres (3,000 ft) on the west slope of the Andes.

I may not go in much for “selfies” but I am more than happy to take “sylphies”!

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They are found in Ecuador & Colombia.  Probably the most easily accessed locations to eco-tourists would be the hummingbird feeders at lodges in the Mindo area.  I took these photos at Sachatamia Lodge.

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LEARN MORE ABOUT VIOLET-TAILED SYLPHS

Wikipedia

Birdlife

Neotropical Birds

VIDEOS

This clip stands out for not being on a feeder.

In this clip you can see the Sylph with other hummingbirds at one of the Sachatamia feeders.