Traveling From Monteverde To Tarcoles Via Limonal

Last week, I did a post about the various types of transport in Costa Rica.  In this post, I will show you in detail what the trip is like between Monteverde and Tarcoles (Carara National Park).

I really should have booked this online but I waited on purpose so that Cala Lodge could make the booking and get a small commission as it would have cost me the same in any case.  As it turns out, they don’t have that set up so I might as well have booked it online.  I chose Grayline because it had the latest possible departure from Monteverde and I wanted to have the early morning to visit Monteverde’s Cloud Forest Reserve.

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Although Jaco is the main tourist area in southern Costa Rica, birders would be heading to Carara National Park to see the magnificent Scarlet Macaws.  Carara doesn’t appear in the drop-down menu, nor does Villa Lapas Lodge or Tarcoles.  Just pick the closest drop-off point and explain to the driver where you really want to go.

The minibus was right on time picking us up at Cala Lodge.

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Not sure of the name of the place but we picked up some other tourists there and I loved the stained glass windows!

IMG_0754aI had been expecting that the same minibus would take us all the way to Tarcoles/Jaco and was somewhat annoyed when I found out we had to change buses in Limonal, a place I was not familiar with.

A – Monteverde
B – Limonal
Yellow circle – Palo Verde National Park

My annoyance quickly changed to excitement when we got to the restaurant at Limonal were we did the changeover.  It turned out to be a short distance from Palo Verde National Park and frequented by wild Scarlet Macaws!  Unlike the clipped-wing Yellow Naped Amazon from the other trip, these birds were free but chose to hang out here, probably to steal food left by passengers.

IMG_0769 IMG_0755 IMG_0763 IMG_0766 IMG_0767 IMG_0770I finally managed to tear myself away from them long enough to buy a couple sandwiches, chips & drinks to take on the next bus to Tarcoles.  This was a larger bus and had the free wifi which was good because the scenery wasn’t so interesting on this leg, at least not until Puntarenas.

A – Monteverde
B – Limonal
C – Tarcoles

You can see how twisty the road was from Montverde as we came down the mountain and I was really glad that I wasn’t driving.  The road from Limonal to Puntarenas was a typical highway which got narrower between Puntarenas and Tarcoles.  The driver dropped us off at Villa Lapas which is right next to Carara National Park.  I really liked the door-to-door convenience of these shuttles even if they were more expensive than public buses.  From Montverde, the public bus left way too early, around 6am so wasn’t an option.

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Monteverde’s Curi Cancha Reserve………….And A Resplendant Quetzal!

Once we arrived in Monteverde and checked in at Cala Lodge, I was talking to Josie, the receptionist about how much I wanted to see a Resplendant Quetzal.  These stunning birds are a draw for every tourist who comes here, not just dedicated birders like me.  I was asking about a taxi to the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve but she told me about Curi Cancha Reserve where it was supposed to be easier to see the Quetzals.

Curi Cancha Wildlife Refuge is a wildlife refuge in the central part of Costa Rica, which forms part of the Arenal Tilaran Conservation Area and protects cloud forest in the Cordillera de Tilarán near Juntas. The refuge entrance is about a kilometer before the famous Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve. The lower portion is drier, with few epiphytes, but the upper portion is cloud forest. While the forest is not quite so pristine as Monteverde, the most spectacular birds are much easier to see. The refuge is particularly good for the Resplendent Quetzal, the most sought-after bird of the cloud forest. The refuge is also a good place to find Keel-billed Toucan, Blue-crowned Motmot, Orange-bellied Trogon, and Three-toed Sloth, as well as monkeys.

You can join a guided tour at certain times of day but we had arrived too late.  Entrance is a reasonable $12 per person and the lady selling tickets was kind enough to phone the guide who had already gone home for the day and ask where Quetzals had been last seen.  He told her and she showed us on the map the path to follow.  Fortunately it wasn’t too far away.  The yellow line shows where they were last seen near that Viewpoint Vista.

Path to Replendant Quetzals

We headed off down the path hoping to find them before it got too dark.  The visibility was already losing ground to the dense cloud cover that gives the cloud forest its name.

IMG_0691 IMG_0659 IMG_0690 IMG_0663So we walked a while and saw a few birds and monkeys.  We heard the Bellbirds but couldn’t see them as they were hiding in the trees.  So we sat and waited, listening carefully but still nothing.  It was getting close to the time the park would close so I took a few pics just for the memories.

IMG_0661 IMG_0664 IMG_0667Wait a minute!  Was that a flash of red up there?  Yes it was!  Perching ever so quietly (probably snickering at us) was a single young male Resplendant Quetzal!  I tried to get good photos but just couldn’t get a good focus with the fading light.  These are the best I was able to get.  (I did get better shots at Savegre later on)

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Eventually the Quetzal flew off to roost for the night, but I was elated and proud of myself for spotting him at all!  He never made a sound, if it hadn’t been for the glimpse of his red chest, I never would have seen him!

We headed back to the entrance and triumphantly showed the lady my blurry shots which proved we found a Quetzal, she was amused but happy for us!

As we walked back to the main road, we saw some agoutis and noticed how quickly the clouds were coming in as a group walking in front of us disappeared into the mist.

IMG_0686 IMG_0688 IMG_0687Once back in town, I spotted a handicraft shop called Casemcoop and was happy to see it was still open……………and it took Amex (had to meet spend on my new PRG)!  This was the perfect way to support the local crafters and I proceeded to buy bags, key chains, Christmas ornaments, wall hangings, jewelry, anything I could find that had a Quezal on it!  My green Quetzal embroidered bag is now used daily and everytime I see it, I remember my encounter with the beautiful bird.

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We went to the pizza place next door for an early dinner, then went back to Cala Lodge so we could be up early in the morning for another chance to see more Quetzals.

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