Marquesan Traditional Dance & Handicrafts – Ua Huka

Posted on July 26, 2014 by Tara

After leaving the museum, we headed back past the airport to the festival grounds. We were lucky the Aranui was in port, otherwise we wouldn’t have gotten a chance to see the traditional Ua Huka dancers! On the map below, I have indicated where this is with the blue arrow. We drove past a small shop, saw how the Arboretum (which we had had all to ourselves!) was now swamped with tourists, then made a quick stop at the airport.

Here is the entrance to the showgrounds, a huge Tiki and lots of tourists! The dancers were young and enthusiastic and of course at the end a few tourists (including me and Ina) got up to join the fun! Leaving the showgrounds, we enjoyed a scenic drive, once again running into the traffic jam. It is shocking how the ship passengers completely overwhelm this island! I was glad that tomorrow we would have a nice quiet day to go birding!

There were two markets available. The one in Hane was only arranged for the ship passengers. The wood carvings are beautiful but not cheap!

The shop in Hokatu is in a permanent shop but opens sporadically – definitely when the Aranui is in port or on request for people staying on the island. Since I didn’t want to have to deal with AQIS (Australian quarantine), I didn’t buy any wood products, just a DVD of Marquesan dance.

Vaipaee Port & Museum, Ua Huka

Posted on July 25, 2014 by Tara

Continuing on from yesterday’s post, we left the Arboretum and headed into the main town of Ua Huka – Vaipaee. The Aranui cruise ship in town was causing a traffic jam as all passengers seemed to be in regular vehicles and we must have passed at least 30 leaving the port as we were entering.

A couple tourists avoided the traffic jam by riding horses!

The Aranui is too large to come into port so goods and passengers are ferried in on smaller boats or barges. The Aranui also serves as a cargo ship and the local Manu bird guide, Geoffray Sulpice also serves as an inspector to make sure no black rats can get into the island.

Here is the Aranui anchored further out.

Looking back towards the port. UA HUKA MUSEUM

A few metres back in the village, there is a small but very interesting museum showing the history and culture of the island. As you enter, there are some Tikis and a nice carving that looks like a coat of arms with some birds on it!

Inside, you can see artifacts and photographs of traditional Marquesan people. There is also a taxidermied Ultramarine Lorikeet called Pihiti in the local language. It is very clear that this beautiful bird means a lot to the locals and they are very keen to conserve the birds.

Taxidermied Marquesan Fruit Dove

Outside the museum is a poster to show the new currency which has been recently re-designed. The new bank notes are a bit smaller and each one has a reference to the culture, flora and fauna of French Polynesia.

Ua Huka Orientation & Arboretum

Posted on July 24, 2014 by Tara

I had been hoping to go birding the next day with the guide, Geoffray Sulpice but because the Aranui cruise ship was in port, he was already occupied for the day. Let’s start with an orientation of the island of Ua Huka. In the map below, I have used red arrows to indicate the 3 villages – Vaipaee, Hane & Hokatu. Each village is at the mouth of a small river or stream that flows through the valley into the sea. The beautiful endemic Ultramarine Lorikeets can be found in these valleys.

Ua Huka highlights map

The northern side of the island is uninhabited, the entire population is in the southern coast where the villages are. There is no public transport. Tourists can either rent a car or horse and go around by themselves or get your guesthouse owner to organize something for you. Maurice did this for us. I forget what he charged for about a half day tour, it was around 2500 XPF-ish.

UA HUKA ARBORETUM

The first stop was the Ua Huka Arboretum which is a botanical garden and one of the best places for independent birding as it is open to the public and there is no entry fee. It is located between the airport and the main village of Vaipaee, see the green arrow above.

There is a trail that leads pretty far back towards the mountain, the further back you walk, the narrower it gets and the more birds you will see. As you walk through, enjoy many beautiful tropical flowers and plants.

Those tiny dots are Ultramarine Lorikeets, must have been in a hurry to get somewhere!

White-capped Fruit Dove

Marquesan Monarch, the other Ua Huka endemic

This little guy is called a “vini” by the locals which is confusing as the scientific name for the Ultramarine Lorikeet is “Vini ultramarina”, but these birds aren’t even close. I think they are Chestnut-breasted Mannikins.

Long-billed Warbler

Finally, ANZ Offers Aussies A Credit Card Deal Like Americans Get

Posted on July 23, 2014 by Tara

This post is for my Australian readers, especially those who have been looking with envy at the lucrative credit cards Americans can get with Chase, Citibank, Amex and more! It’s very rare to find an offer where the annual fee is waived! Minimum spend is $1500 in 3 months so pretty easy even if we can’t manufacture spend here!

*Not affiliate links, they go right to Qantas website.

I applied and got a “more information required” message so no instant approval but my details are well within the criteria for the basic card.

What can you do with 50,000 Qantas Frequent Flyer points? Use the “where can I go” tool! Please note the taxes and fees, some of which are YQ fuel surcharges.

Lodge Review: Pension Maurice et Delphine, Ua Huka, Marquesas

Posted on July 22, 2014 by Tara

Forget your hotel points, in the Marquesas, you will be staying in small guesthouses with the locals called pensions – and that’s half the fun! Pension Maurice et Delphine is in the village of Hokatu which is the best location if you are hoping to see Ultramarine Lorikeets.

You can’t beat the loction, on a cliff with a great view of the sea!

We stayed 3 nights and the first night we were the only guests. We were lucky enough to get the bungalow Mata Otemanu which is on the corner of the property so we had views of both the sea and the valley. This valley is where I got my first glimpse of the beautiful Ultramarine Lorikeet as pairs flew swiftly and sporadically through the valley.

The bungalows themselves are small but cute. They don’t have kitchens but they do have a kettle so you can boil water for ramen noodles! No hot water so we had to take quick showers in the afternoon before the sun set and it cooled down.

Wild horses (which can be seen from the verandah) were not going to drag me away from my lazy birding! Most people book demi-pension which gives breakfast and dinner. In June 2014, this was 5900 XPF per person. The breakfast is a typical island continental breakfast of bread, fruit, coffee, tea and fresh-squeezed lemon juice. Dinners will have a variety, usually seafood but they were very accommodating when I told them I don’t eat seafood. My husband was loving the island style food (like he grew up with)! Meals are served at Maurice & Delphine’s house which is a short walk from the bungalows. At night, there are no street lights so you will need a torch/flashlight to get back.

My husband got into some ukulele jamming with the family after dinner!Maurice & Delphine have a small convenience store and Maurice is a master wood carver so you can see his workshop and buy souvenirs if you want.

In front of the house/shop you can see a typical Polynesian vaka or canoe.

Maurice & Delphine are lovely people. This is one of the reasons people visit the Marquesas – to see how the locals live and interact with them and you can’t ask for friendlier people! Delphine’s English is better than Maurice’s so be prepared to communicate in French. The bird guide (whom I will talk about in a future post) is their nephew and they are happy to organize any birding or sightseeing you need on the island at reasonable prices. There is no internet or email here so you have to call them by phone to book accommodation and once again, be prepared to speak basic French! Airport transfers are 2000 CFP return.

Contact Information

Address: Vaipae’e, Vaipaee, Ua Huka, French Polynesia
Phone: /92–60–55

Changes In Avianca And Star Alliance Ticket Redemption

Posted on July 21, 2014 by Tara

At least they are giving 3 months advance notice! I have another post on best uses of Lifemiles for eco-tourists. I still think they are best used on their own metal for intra-Peru or intra-Central America. The figures below are for round-trip tickets, one ways are half the amount.

From October 15^th, 2014, redemption fares for flights with Avianca will change, which include reductions and increases, as shown in the following table:

Origin		Destination		Miles¹ from October 15^th, 2014
Miami		Central America		28.000
Florida		Central America The Caribbean		25.000
		Mexico		30.000
		South America		40.000
		Europe		80.000
		Colombia³ Ecuador	Venezuela Peru	30.000
Orlando		Bogota and Medellin		33.000

Washington		Bogota		37.000
New York		Medellin		37.000
Dallas Newark New York Washington	Chicago Houston Toronto	Colombia		35.000
		Central America⁴ The Caribbean		30.000
		Ecuador		35.000
		Europe		80.000
Dallas Newark New York Washington	Chicago Houston Toronto	Mexico		30.000
Dallas Newark New York	Washington Chicago Houston	Peru Venezuela		35.000
Dallas Newark New York	Washington Chicago Houston
Toronto
Dallas Newark New York	Washington Chicago Houston	Buenos Aires Montevideo Santiago de Chile		45.000
Dallas Newark New York	Washington Chicago Houston	Asuncion Brasilia Rio de Janeiro Sao Paulo	Porto Alegre La Paz Santa Cruz
Toronto		South America

Los Angeles		Bogota		38.000
Los Angeles		Lima		37.000
Los Angeles and San Francisco		Central America and The Caribbean		35.000
		Colombia Ecuador	Peru Venezuela	35.000
		Mexico		40.000
		Europe		80.000
		South America		45.000

Mexico		Central America The Caribbean Colombia²		25.000
		Peru		27.000
		Ecuador		28.000
		Venezuela		30.000
		Asuncion Buenos Aires Montevideo Santiago de Chile	Brasilia Rio de Janeiro Sao Paulo Porto Alegre La Paz Santa Cruz	45.000
		Miami Orlando Fort Lauderdale		30.000
		Dallas Newark Washington	Houston New York Chicago
		Toronto
		Los Angeles San Francisco		40.000
		Europe		80.000

¹ The amount of miles represent round trip tickets
² Except Mexico to Bogota, Medellin or Cali, from 28.000 miles
³ Except Orlando – Bogota / Medellin, from 33.000 miles
⁴ Except Houston-El Salvador, from 35.000 miles; Dallas/Washington/New York / Toronto, – El Salvador, from 36.000 miles

Flights with Star Alliance member airlines

As for changes in air ticket redemption with Star Alliance member airlines, these include increases up to 13.000 miles in Economy Class and up to 26.000 miles in Business Class. Both cases apply for roundtrip flights from North America.

For roundtrip flights from Mexico, there will be reductions up to 15.000 miles and increases up to 14.000 miles in Economy Class, also reductions up to 20.000 miles and increases up to 28.000 miles in Business class.

To be sure that our members have the opportunity to understand all changes before these take place, all modifications will be effective from October 15^th, 2014.

Terms and Conditions

The table shown above is illustrative only; its intention is to summarize the amount of miles that will be required per region for the X class in economy cabin. The amount of miles required for a ticket redemption is calculated based on a specific origin and destination and could not match with the amount of miles shown on the table above, it could be higher.
The amount of miles required could vary depending on the date, route and redemption product.
To know the exact amount of required miles for each origin and destination, it will be necessary to consult the amount through the redemption system athttps://www.lifemiles.com/eng/use/red/dynredpar.aspx after October 15th, 2014.
The amounts listed by the redemption system shall prevail over those shown on the table above.
LifeMiles is a trademark of LifeMiles Corp.
LifeMiles Terms and Conditions apply and can be found at www.lifemiles.com.

Rio & Rio 2 Movies Help Conservation Efforts

Posted on July 20, 2014 by Tara

Call it anthropomorphism, but any movies that brings Spix’s Macaws to the attention of the general public and highlights the reasons they are now extinct in the wild is a good thing! The first movie showed the evils of poachers and the black market wildlife trade. The second movies highlights the ravages of deforestation by illegal loggers. What I really loved about this interview is that Russ Mittermeier, the president of Conservation International has actual footage of the last wild Spix’s Macaw!. I blogged about them a couple years ago and where they used to be found in Brazil. I hope that someday, they will fly freely and safely there again!

First Impressions – Ua Huka

Posted on July 19, 2014 by Tara

We arrived right on time, I was very impressed with Air Tahiti’s punctuality. Since Ua Huka is a smaller island, we had to change planes in Nuku Hiva. The airport is small but it was nice to stretch my legs after the long flight from Papeete.

Always ready to watch birds, I spotted a Nuku Hiva pigeon near the airport.

The plane to Ua Huka was much smaller. It turned out that the son of my guesthouse owner was on the plane so I was looking forward to a smooth transfer to our bungalow.

The rugged topography of Ua Huka soon came into view.

We touched down at the tiny airport and “surprise” no one was there to pick us up! The son had taken off with his friends. Everyone seemed to know everyone else and assured me that Maurice, the guesthouse owner would be along shortly.

When everyone else had taken off, an airport employee took pity on us and gave us a lift to Hokatu. The scenery along the way was amazing! If these islands were as close to Papeete as Bora Bora, they would be over-run with tourists so I was starting to appreciate the long (albeit expensive) journey to get there!

We were dropped at Maurice & Delphine’s home where Maurice came out, apologized for not being at the airport and took us to our bungalow. Review coming!

The Tragedy Of MH17 – Shot Down In Ukraine

Posted on July 18, 2014 by Tara

I woke to the Aussie morning news channels full of the shocking story of the Malaysian Airlines flight that was shot down in the Ukraine in what would have been after midnight in our time zone. I was shocked by the news that 295 innocent people have been killed and horrified be the images that were now being broadcast of the wreckage. My thoughts and prayers are with the victims and their families and also with Malaysian Airlines whom I think was simply in the wrong place at the wrong time. The shooting down of this passenger plane should be treated as a war crime and the criminals brought to justice.

Although everyone is saddened by this tragedy, there are always elements that make it hit closer to home. There are the Australian passports just like the ones my husband and I carry. People just like us who just wanted an overseas adventure. Since Malaysian Airlines joined OneWorld, it’s been a popular award for Aussies traveling to Europe and Asia.

Lonely Planet Bali guidebook found in wreckage of MH 17

But what really got me was the Lonely Planet guidebook found in the wreckage. Lonely Planets have been my travel Bibles since the early 80’s and on numerous occasions, I boarded flights with such a book in my carry on to read on the plane and brush up on my destination.

Last night, people who were just like me said goodbye to their loved ones and boarded a flight that was supposed to be their adventure of a lifetime. To see new cultures, party on the beach, make new friends and have new experiences. But their dreams will never be fulfilled. They will never come home to their loved ones with tons of photos and silly souvenirs.

I don’t mean people should panic and cancel their trips but rather focus on what’s important. It’s not about the movies on the IFE, the way your steak is cooked and how often the flight attendants smile at you. At the end of the day, what’s important is that you get to your destination safely and return home to those you love.

RIP victims of the war criminal attack on MH 17.

Air Tahiti Flight: Papeete – Ua Huka, Marquesas

Posted on July 17, 2014 by Tara

You gotta love an airport where you can get lei’d first thing in the morning if you want!

The airport is buzzing from 5am onwards as people are checking in for departures at 6am onwards. The line is pretty long, no elite check-in so get there as early as you can! Fares are not cheap as I already posted!

Flights boarded right on time. People with children were called first, then all others walked to the plane and chose any open seat. We went for the “poor people’s business class” in the front. Not a great idea as seat arms don’t come up and we were last off the plane.

Air Tahiti’s domestic service is probably one of the more pleasant one-class flights you can take. On longer services to the Marquesas they aren’t able to sell every seat on the plane due to runway length and weight restrictions. The odds are pretty good you will have an empty seat next to you! Staff were very friendly but only coffee, tea or water were provided for free. We had brought the breakfast from the Tahiti Airport Motel as we weren’t prepared to eat at 5:30am! Snacks are available for purchase on board.

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