Birding Galapagos On A Budget

The magnificent eco-tourism hotspot of the the Galapagos Islands is pretty high on most people’s bucket lists even if they aren’t usually birders.  There is something magical about seeing the birds and animals close up and unafraid.  But unless you know how to work the mileage programs, this wonderful destination may get crossed off the list if you think you can’t afford it.  It’s not easy but you CAN have a fulfilling Galapagos experience even on a shoe-string budget.  In this post I will show you my thought process in finding the best solution for us and things you need to consider.

CRUISE OR LAND BASED?

The first decision to make is if you want to take a cruise around several islands or have a land-based experience on one or more islands.  This is going to come down to how much you can afford and if you like sea travel in a small boat.

Since we didn’t take a cruise, I can’t recommend one ship over another.  I did Google “Galapagos cruises” and quickly realized that there was no way we could afford a cruise.  The cruises which last 4-8 days are in the $300-700 per night range.  Some examples can be found on this link.  We already were spending up on the Napo Wildlife Center package so had to economize everywhere else.

The other thing I would have taken into consideration was the size of the boat.  I am prone to sea-sickness and small boats do get tossed around on the open sea more than I would be comfortable with.  The boats take 16-20 passengers (whom you may like or not like) so you do have the feeling of being on a group tour but in a confined space so this wasn’t appealing to me either.

The benefits of being on a cruise is that you get to see most of the islands and the widest variety of wildlife.  The ships have their own naturalist guides to explain everything to you and once you are on the ship you can unpack and relax for a few days.

The decision to stay land based was an easy one for me as I wouldn’t have been comfortable on a small boat for several days and I couldn’t afford it.

WHICH ISLAND(S)?

Next decision was choosing an island or islands.  The issues faced by budget travelers is saving money on the flights.  There are 3 airlines which fly from Quito & Guayaquil to the two main islands – Santa Cruz served by Baltra Airport (GPS) and San Cristobal served by San Cristobal Airport (SCY).

LATAM is a OneWorld partner and theoretically you should be able to redeem AAdvantage miles or British Airways Avios for the flights but it’s not that simple.  I’ve gone into more detail about why this happens.  The only way I was able to solve the problem was getting a LanPass Visa from US Bank and topping up with some SPG Starpoints.

Avianca/Aerogal is a Star Alliance partner and with luck you can get award flights using United miles at 10,000 each way per person.  Since I had a better use for my United miles elsewhere, I didn’t go this route.  You can also try Avianca’s Lifemiles which may have better availability.  Availability can be hit or miss.  Right now, it’s pretty good.  Last year when I looked it was pretty bad so YMMV!

TAME is another option but you’ll have to pay cash as they don’t have any partnerships or alliances.

The taxes are low, around $20 each when you buy the tickets (pay credit card) and you have to pay another $20 (cash only) for an INGALA Tourist Control Card when you check in at the airport.  When you arrive at the airport in the Galapagos, there is a $100 entry fee per person, this is also cash only.  If you forget to bring it, they will send you to the ATM and you can’t leave the airport until it is paid.  So be prepared with the cash!

Choosing between San Cristobal and Santa Cruz depends on what kind of wildlife you want to see, how long you are staying and your budget.  In my case, I am a birder and I don’t really like snorkeling, especially in the open sea (as opposed to a tranquil lagoon).  I did research on eBird and “Where to Find Birds in Ecuador” and decided that a land based visit to San Cristobal would give us the greatest number of potential bird species (including all 3 Boobies & Frigatebirds) with the lowest possible cost.  You can get cheap hotels on both islands but with San Cristobal, you can get to the birding hotspots in one full day boat trip whereas with Santa Cruz you have to take longer ferry rides to other islands to get more bird species.  I figured I could suck it up, eat & drink minimally to survive the full day boat trip.  This will be covered in detail in another post.

So now that I have explained how I tailored our Galapagos trip based on our budget and wildlife viewing priorities, you can use similar techniques to plan your own Galapagos adventure!

 

Domestic Flights In Ecuador With TAME

TAME is not part of any airline alliance so you have to buy these tickets online with a credit card.  Luckily, they are not expensive!   TAME flies to certain destinations like Loja (closest airport to Podocarpus & Buenaventura) and other eco-tourism hotspots like Coca for the Amazon and the Galapagos.

Keep an eye out for sale fares like this one.  Would you rather take a one hour flight or a 10 hour bus ride with prices like this?

Tame

It’s a pretty user-friendly airline.  I printed our boarding passes the night before at the Holiday Inn in Guayaquil and the flight actually left on time!  The planes are small but I prefer smaller planes with 2×2 rows rather than larger planes with 3×3 rows where a couple has to sit with a stranger.

When you buy your ticket, you may see a notice that you have to show the original credit card you use to purchase the ticket.  On our flight, no one asked us.  We didn’t have checked bags and they just compared our passports to the printed boarding pass.  It’s probably a good idea to bring the credit card along just in case though!

The overheads were a tight squeeze for our backpacks which are normal carry-on sized but we managed to squish them in as they weren’t full anyways.

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Why You Can’t Get AA/BA Partner Awards On Lan To The Galapagos

I experienced it myself – the frustration of trying to get award space on Lan from Guayaquil to the Galapagos.  Most people want to get to GPS (Baltra) as that is where the Galapagos cruises depart from and Lan flies there daily.  In my case, since we aren’t doing a cruise, I wanted to get to SCY (San Cristobal) since it has the best land-based birding options but Lan only has 4 flights a week there.  For the purposes of this demonstration, I will use GPS so you can see the fluctuations throughout a week on a daily basis.

Most people going to the Galapagos will want to book as far ahead as possible, especially if they are connecting to a cruise.  At the time I wrote this post, Lan has availability loaded to 25 July at the 20,000 round trip level (10,000 each way).  BA has picked this space up although it usually doesn’t at this level.  On the 4 days preceeding 25 July there is no award space on BA for this route.

Lan GPS1

You can see here the different levels of economy awards.  Lan only flies economy class to the Galapagos.  Usually you need seats at the 8000 km each way level to have it show up on a partner award request.  These seats are selling for anywhere between 11,000 – 14,000 so you can only book them on Lan.

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It can get much worse – have a look at these flights over Semana Santa (Easter Holy Week) which is ultra-peak season!  Award seats can go up to 22,000 each way!

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You can sometimes get lucky with close-in bookings.  Although surrounding dates have the high award rates, there is a window of opportunity on a few dates in September as shown by the red dots.

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And this is how it looks on BA’s booking system.

Lan GPS7So how can you get to the Galapagos?

1.  Lanpass:  Get the US Bank Lan Visa card, then supplement the award with miles transferred from SPG.  It takes about a week for the miles to land which is really frustrating as the award prices can fluctuate daily.

2.  Fly on Aerogal, the Avianca partner who is a member of Star Alliance.  Unfortunately Avianca doesn’t have any transfer partners such as SPG, Ultimate Rewards, Thankyou Points or Amex MR so you have to buy miles, preferably on a promo deal.  They do have a co-branded card with US Bank.

3.  Use United, although availability has been patchy in the past, I am seeing good availability at time of writing.  Oddly enough if you are in GYE, you have to transfer in UIO to get to the Galapagos.

Lan GPS84.  Use your miles to Quito or Guayaquil and pay for the flights to the Galapagos.  Expedia search on random dates for RT flights.

Lan GPS9However you manage to get to the Galapagos, rest assured it will be well worth it!  We are going next year and can’t wait!