Pafuri – A Kruger Birding Hotspot


Pafuri is situated on the Luvuvu River at the northern tip of the Kruger Park. It is an exciting birding spot with a high concentration and variety of birds. Birding Big Day teams have recorded 24-hour lists of over 260 species for the area. The prime habitat is riverine forest, and this is backed up by the sandy river bed itself, patches of acacia woodland, cliffs, and all surrounded by dry mopane and baobab woodland. The nearest camp is Punda Maria, although there is a very attractive picnic site on the river. Birding is best if you leave Punda Maria when the gates open, and drive straight down to Pafuri (about 60 km).  There’s more information here about specific birds in this area.

IMG_1284There is an amazing ranger based at Pafuri named Frank.  He knows all the local birds and is happy to help you identify what you see there or point you in the right direction if you are seeking any particular species.

IMG_1300In my case, I was seeking Brown-headed parrots.  They are frequently seen in this area and Frank did his best to help me find some but no luck.  At one point he thought he heard some across the river but they refused to come any closer.

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The picnic area is really nice and if you got up early to leave Punda Maria for the drive here, it’s a great place for breakfast.  But beware of theiving monkeys!

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The drive to and from Pafuri can be very birdy and you may get lucky with some animal sightings too.

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Lilac-breasted Rollers are some of my favourite birds and are easily seen in Kruger.

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Punda Maria Rest Camp, Kruger National Park

Punda Maria is the northernmost of SANParks rest camps and is in a great position for bird watchers.  It is supposed to be a 6 hour drive from JNB airport but add on an hour or so to allow for traffic and getting lost.  It’s best to start in the morning so if your flight arrives late, plan on staying near the airport and pick up your rental car in the morning so you can inspect it properly.

JNB to Punda Maria Rest Camp

Over the last 20 years, I have stayed at several of the Kruger NP rest camps and Punda Maria is by far my favourite.  Even if it wasn’t in prime birding territory, it has such a beautiful, restful setting and feels more remote and wild than some of the larger camps such as Pretoriuskop.  Going by Trip Advisor, I am not the only one who likes this place!  Siyabona Africa also has a great review.

Punda Maria Camp lies in an area of fascinating history and unsurpassed bird watching. It also recognized as the best region inside the Park for Kruger National Park safari accommodation in which to spot the often shy Nyala Antelope.

Punda Maria boasts 7 luxury safari tents and a swimming pool. Punda Maria Gate has received a new building, reception area and ablution blocks; providing trouble free Kruger National Park lodging.

It’s easy to book in advance on the SANParks website and you definitely want to do this, especially if your visit coincides with South African school holidays, though this camp won’t be nearly as crowded as the ones further south.

This is a map of the camp.  I highlighted in yellow the safari tent we had in 2009.  we absolutely loved it!  The deck is a great place to relax and watch birds fly by while you are cooking dinner and also watch the sunrise!

Punda Maria

Notice the bird hide just in front of the pond at the bottom of the map?  If you are lucky, you may see Brown-headed Parrots there.

HOW TO BOOK

Bookings are easily done on SANParks website.  Prices are very reasonable.  Here is a sample of prices for Punda Maria and availability for a non-school holiday period.  As a rough guide 10 Rand is around 1 USD.

Punda Maria rates as of July 2013

Here is a sample of availability 2 months from now.  As you can see, there are only a few bookings left for safari tents which is why you need to book early.

Availability Sept 2013

This is our safari tent.  They do cost a bit more but worth every penny!

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RANGER GUIDED SAFARI DRIVES

Don’t miss out on these!  They give you the best of both worlds-the independence of your own car during the day and a chance to see the surrounding area with an experienced ranger-guide.  They generally do them at sunrise, sunset and/or night and are very reasonably priced.  We did one that left in the late afternoon and stayed out around 4 hours if I remember correctly.  It was awesome, here’s a few pics.

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BIRDING IN PUNDA MARIA

In the camp (particularly on the Paradise Flycatcher Trail) Yellowbellied Greenbul and Terrestrial Brownbul (Bulbul), Bearded Scrub Robin should be looked for. Birding throughout the camp is excellent. Birds of prey are common overhead. Verreaux’s (Black) Eagle is sometimes seen, while in winter the White-necked Raven is a regular visitor. The Mahonie Loop, (the 25km circular drive around the camp) is undoubtedly one of the most rewarding birding drives in the Park. One should give oneself plenty of time to cover the distance, and travel with windows down and stop frequently, particularly for calls.

On a good day one could record several of the following ‘specials’: White-breasted Cuckoo-shrike, Arnot’s Chat, Crowned Hornbill, Grey-headed (Chestnut-bellied) Kingfisher, Crested Guineafowl, Gorgeous Bush Shrike, Grey-headed Parrot, African and European Golden Oriole (both summer), Eastern (Yellow-spotted) Nicator, Stierling’s Wren-Warbler (Barred Warbler) and Dickinson’s Kestrel. Narina Trogon has also been recorded on the loop, but is shy and elusive. On the drive from Punda Maria to Pafuri via the Klopperfontein Dam, Racket-tailed Roller and Southern (Mashona) Hyliota have been recorded. This is also one of the best areas to search for Yellow-billed Oxpecker. This species was absent in the park for many years, but returned in the 1980s and their numbers are still increasing. Buffalo are the preferred hosts.

This video was shown on a South African travel show and gives an orientation of the camp.

Brief Overview Of Kruger National Park

It’s unthinkable to come all the way to South Africa and not visit Kruger National Park.  It is one of the largest game reserves in Africa. It covers an area of 19,633 square kilometres (7,580 sq mi) in the provinces of Limpopo and Mpumalanga in northeastern South Africa, and extends 360 kilometres (220 mi) from north to south and 65 kilometres (40 mi) from east to west.  You can easily drive yourself there in a rental car from Johannesburg or you can join an organized safari.  With such a huge area and wide variety of habitats to choose from you may be wondering how you can chose at all?

OVERVIEW

First you need to decide on which part of the park you want to see.  It’s way too big to try to cover it all in one visit so best to figure out which species you want to see, research the best possible places to see them, then decide if you want a private safari camp or one of SAN-Parks rest camps.  Here is a map to show where they are located.

map-kruger-national-park-smallAll the Big Five game animals are found at Kruger National Park, which has more species of large mammals than any other African Game Reserve (at 147 species).  Out of the 517 species of birds found at Kruger, 253 are residents, 117 non-breeding migrants, and 147 nomads.   You won’t be able to see everything so choose a few species an concentrate on finding them and just enjoy everything else that comes along.  There are numerous blogs and forums about African safaris so I am not going to try to compete with them but rather write from a birder’s perspective.  Siyabona Africa has a great introduction to birding in Kruger NP.

BIRD LISTS FOR KRUGER NATIONAL PARK

Kruger NP Bird Guide

SANParks Bird List

Avibase

 

HOW I DECIDE ON MY TARGET SPECIES

Parrots are my all-time favourite types of birds so I tend to seek them out first and choose my safari location accordingly.  There are 2 species of parrots found in Kruger – Brown-headed Parrot (Poicephalus cryptoxanthus) and a sub-species of Cape Parrot (Poicephalus fuscicollis).  There is an easier place to find Cape Parrots, the Woodbush Forest in Magoebaskloof so I base myself at the northernmost SANPark rest camp-Punda Maria.  The best place to see Brown-headed Parrots is near Pafuri which  is best accessed from Punda Maria Camp.  I will be doing a full review in the next post.

You won’t miss out on the Big 5 by targeting a bird species.  We saw lions and elephants even on a short visit to nothern Kruger.  You can also visit several rest camps and target different species.